Taking Night Photos

We've all seen amazing night photos of star trails or city lights but would you believe that after taking ten minutes to read this article you too will be able to start taking photos that you will be proud to display. In this article we will cover the equipment you need and recommended settings to get started. In later blog posts I'll go over how to edit your photos in general and specifically the night photos you take between now and then.

Equipment

A good tripod will be your most important piece of equipment. This will allow your camera to remain steady and focused on your subject. Additionally you will need a remote shutter release (wired or wireless). On most cameras you can use your camera's timer setting to take pictures with exposures up to thirty seconds, but a remote is a valuable and inexpensive piece of equipment.

A flash and extra batteries are always good to have on hand as well. Make sure you know what type of batteries you flash, remote, and camera require (long exposure photos drain your camera's battery more quickly).

To get the highest quality photos possibly you should use a hood for your lens and use and eye piece cover to keep unwanted light from entering your camera body.

A flashlight will also be valuable for helping you find your way in the dark, illuminating your subject so that your camera can focus, and to create special effects like light painting.

Lastly, it will be critical to your check your local weather conditions and the lunar cycle. You would be disappointed if you planned a photo excursion just to get rained on and your star photos will be effected by light pollution from the moon.

Settings

I cannot stress how important it is to learn your camera settings inside and out. Taking night photos can be easy if you have spent time understanding how shutter speed, aperture, and ISO work together.

If you have already determined your desired focal length and composed you photo it is normally best to put your ISO on the lowest setting in order to obtain photos with the least possible amount of noise.

Next determine you aperture based on the depth of field needed to get all of your subject in focus. If taking photos of landscapes or stars where the nearest object your would like to be in focus is more than a quarter mile away you can open your aperture as wide as possible which will allow you to get the maximum amount of light onto your camera's sensor.

If your camera is having trouble focusing due to low light conditions you can use your flashlight by illuminating your subject to help you focus but it is a good idea to practice manually focusing.

The last setting left is to select your shutter speed. I suggest relying on your cameras meter to start and then you can deviate to create desired effects. For example say you would like to take a sunset picture with some soft and blurred waves I would suggest using a three second exposure in which case you would have to adjust your aperture and ISO accordingly. Or if you are trying to get a good picture of the stars without start trails I would recommend using a thirty second exposure if your are using a focal length less than 20mm. Note that the longer your focal length is the more star movement your camera will record and therefore a shorter exposure will be necessary. On the other hand this is also an easy way to get start trails if you do not have a remote.

At this point you are ready to take some test shots. Take a 6 second exposure at 6400 ISO to make sure everything is in focus. If everything looks good you are ready to capture the stars with exposures at or below thirty seconds and create star trails with exposures from at least five minutes up to as long as you desire. Note that by turning on your camera's long exposure and high ISO settings it will take you camera usually as long as the photo was exposed to process the picture (i.e. one minute photo, one minute until your camera is ready to display the image and continue shooting).

Finally when reviewing your picture on your camera's LCD screen at night it will seem brighter than it will look on your computer (like viewing your screen in a dark room as opposed to viewing a laptop screen in direct sunlight). So utilize your camera's histogram to help your determine if your picture is bright enough.

How To Edit Photos

Editing photos is a necessary step for every photographer striving to create the best possible image. The photo editing can be a very rewarding process yet at the same time very tedious. It is very subjective and may change over time as will your style as a photographer. In this article I will briefly cover a suggested process, often called workflow.

There are many ways to catalogue your photos and many programs to edit your photos with. I suggest creating a folder for the year with successive subfolders containing the month, date and event title, an ‘edited’ folder to export into, and finally a ‘resized’ folder to export smaller photos for sharing.

As for programs I suggest trying a free trial of Adobe Lightroom. Most programs can help you get the same end result but Lightroom has presets, quick keys, and a very user-friendly system in general. Note that monitors and printers are calibrated differently based on manufacturers and models so some people choose to purchase a color calibration program. Others print a few photos with varying exposure and color and find a self-printing station that works for them.

As for the editing process itself I suggest applying a preset during the importing step so that the settings which you know that you always use are applied to all of your photos, thus saving you a lot of time. Three that I suggest starting with are color (sometimes called vibrance, saturation, or enhance), sharpness (sometimes called clarity), and contrast. Next I would suggest adding a vignette at this point if you are going to do so. Adding a vignette will affect the exposure in certain areas of the photo so it is good to apply it before you start to tweak the exposure. Following this I would crop the photo until you are happy with it.

Next on the list of steps I would work on the exposure (the histogram is a useful tool), shadows, white balance (temperature), fine tune the contrast and clarity, and lastly do any touch up editing (i.e. spot removal).

When you are ready to take on more complex editing look into adjusting the tonal curve, adjusting individual colors, and using tools like the graduated filter.

With these adjustments having been made to your photo(s) you are well on your way to becoming a more efficient and skilled editor of your photographs.

Portrait Photography

Portrait photography is an available market and quick way to gain experience, build your portfolio, and start making a little money. If you already have the confidence then all you need is a camera and a subject. However, if you're looking for a little guidance and some know-how then hopefully this article will provide you with both so that you have the confidence to go out and get started.

In a future article I hope to explain how to go about marketing yourself so that you can get photo gigs, but for now let's assume you have already booked a client.

Obviously your client will have a purpose for hiring you as their photographer so this will give you a chance to discuss what kind of theme or look it is they are going for. This will give you an opportunity to suggest clothing and bringing multiple outfits. Here is also a good time to establish repore with your client. The more relaxed and confident in your abilities they are then the better you chemistry will be resulting in more natural looking photographs. Also, during the shoot get your model excited about the pictures your are taking. Show them some of the great ones and give them freedom to experiment with different looks but demonstrate that you are capable of taking control.

Always consider lighting. Have a flash, off camera flash, reflectors, you can use windows to cheat.

Research weather in advance. Have at least one back up plan, it may be crowded. Know the area you are shooting well. If necessary show up to the shoot an hour early.

Bring all of your equipment, even if you think you may not need it.

Have an assistant help atthe shoot, even if it's only for a second pair of eyes. Be hypercritical of the first few dozen shots but not at the expense of effecting the mood. Pay attention to all details.

Low ISO, F5, 1/8 flash, hand holding slow shutter speed drill. Know that a longer focal length is more flattering, 50mm.

Photography Drills Part 2

We are continuing on with part two of our Photography Drills article. If you didn't read the first article about shutter speed and aperture take a moment to read it and sharpen your photography skills. So we pick up where we left off with ISO.

ISO drill. Your camera's sensor sensitivity is referred to as ISO (International Standards Organization). The more sensitive you make it to light the less time, or amount of light, it needs to make a picture. This allows you to use a faster shutter speed or a larger depth of field. The trade off is that the higher your ISO is the more 'noise' will appear on your images. In case you are wondering what ‘noise’ is, that is what we are hoping to demonstrate by doing this drill.

Start with your ISO at the lowest setting you have (100 on most cameras). Take photos progressively increasing your ISO between each photo (100, 200, 320, 400, etc.). You'll notice that your photos are becoming increasingly brighter, so to get the full effect of the drill it would be best to have the same exposure for each photo. The easiest way to do this is to set your camera on A (aperture priority, as always if you're not familiar with this term consult your camera manual).

Next, put the images on your computer and determine at which ISO you start to notice when the 'noise' from the ISO starts to detract from the quality of your picture. Some cameras will produce a fair amount of noise at ISO 400 while other crop-sensor bodies will do just fine at ISO 800 (full-frame cameras are the ISO ninjas).

Note that camera body and lens combinations, and conditions will produce varied results, so for extra credit complete the drill again using different lenses and lighting conditions and evaluate your results.

Flash drill. As I said in my last article shutter speed, aperture, and ISO are traditionally the three settings that comprise the way light hits your camera sensor, but since flash can heavily influence your results as well, I decided to throw it in here also.

Your camera will have an in-house flash and most cameras are compatible with a flash that fits on a mount as well. 'Fill flash' is generally used to create a more flattering and contrasting result for your pictures but since you are adding light to your subject this tool can also be used poorly and ruin an otherwise good photo.

To get the full effect of this drill choose a subject with a similar color to someone’s skin tone (even better ask someone to model for you), since this is where flash photography will come in handy for most photographers starting out. After you've selected your subject begin taking photos at your lowest manual flash setting and progressively increase the amount of flash you use until the amount of light on the subject becomes so bright that you start to lose detail. This may only be able to be determined by viewing the photos on your computer but the information may also be obtained by using your camera's histogram.

Since each model camera is different with regards to how you adjust your flash settings I won’t get into that here. Once again I encourage you to learn your own camera inside and out, practice, and share your knowledge with others.

Photography Drills 1 of 2

Traditionally there are three main elements that contribute to the image that is recorded on your camera's sensor, shutter speed, aperture (F- stop), and ISO (film/sensor sensitivity). In this article I will go over drills that you can do for these three settings while adding a fourth very useful function of your camera, flash.

1) Shutter speed drill. As you know if you have spent time reading your camera's manual, the shutter speed is the amount of time that light is recorded on your camera's sensor by flipping up the mirror and opening the shutter blades covering the sensor. Now that you know how shutter speed works it's time to practice your first drill.

Choose a stationary subject and progressively take photos at a slower and slower shutter speed, starting at 1/200, until it is evident that you are not able to hold still enough to take a good quality photo (probably somewhere between 1/125 and 1/60, unless you are a ninja). Your photos will get brighter and brighter so decrease your ISO or use a smaller aperture as you shoot.

Next put your photos on your computer and review them to determine how slow of a shutter speed you can have and still take a good picture. This will help you in low light situations, when you are trying not to increase your ISO or you cannot open up your aperture any more. Note that the longer focal length you use (i.e. 200mm vs. 18mm) the more difficult it will become to take pictures at the same shutter speed with a shorter focal length. That is a good secondary drill to practice in order to illustrate this point.

2) Aperture drill. Look down the barrel of your lens and you will see an opening that can be adjusted to let more or less light in depending on what your situation calls for. If you want to see this in action step your aperture to f10 and look down the barrel as you take a photo to see the aperture setting work.

Now for the drill. Find a brick wall, tile floor, or a fence with posts rather close together. 'Open" your aperture as wide as it goes (i.e. f3.5 as opposed to f10). This will create a 'narrow depth of field' that will demonstrate how your camera works to get subjects into focus. Stand next to the wall/fence/floor as it extends out in front of you. Take a picture attempting to focus on a point about ten feet in front of you (I say 'attempting' because depending on your autofocus setting this may be easier or more difficult). Take a number of photos progressively 'stopping down' (closing your aperture i.e. 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.6, 6.3 etc.) to let less light in but also increase your depth of field.

As you review your photos on your computer notice how as you 'stopped down' even though you remained focused on the same point more and more of the area in front and behind your specific focus point was in focus. This can be used to create very artsy photos using the blurred look or landscape photos with a great deal of the picture in focus.

Stay tuned to our next article where we will complete the trifecta+1, ISO and Flash drills.

Photography - Where to begin?

Maybe you just bought a digital camera, or you have been seeing your friends taking amazing photos and you would like to learn how to be a better photographer. Where to begin? This article is aimed at equipping you with the necessary tools to get you on your way to becoming a better photographer. As I said in my last article (The Art of Photography), I always give the same three pieces of advice to individuals looking to improve their photography skills, read your camera manual, watch podcasts/videos, and take photos regularly. Let's break each of those down.

1) Read your manual. Cover to cover. Your camera is a tool and the better you know your tool the more it can do for you. Specifically, know the different autofocus and single point settings, the self timer and burst photo settings, what white balance is, learn about the in house flash, how to use the histogram, image quality and size, what metering and bracketing is, where to adjust shutter speed, ISO, and aperture, and where you can view those setting. That should keep you busy for a while. As you read have your camera with you so that you can practice what you are learning.

2) Watch videos. People have spent years becoming great photographers and some of them have how created videos so that we can benefit from all that they have learned and take great photos too. Search iTunes for my favorite podcasts Photo Tips and The Art of Photography. If you’re looking for something a little more entertaining but still informative check out Jared Polin of Fro Knows Photo. Again, as you watch have your camera with you so that you can pause the video and practice what you are learning.

3) Practice. I've spent thousands of days shooting and there is always something new that I learn or something that I need to improve on. Set high standards for your photos but remember to appreciate what you have been able to do. The tendency for new digital photographers is to take hundreds of photos an hour since after all, it’s digital and all you have to do is delete the pictures you don’t like. However we would do well to emulate the film photographers in this regard. Take you time to practice metering and composing your photos knowing that if you develop good habits to begin with you will always be able to rapid fire high quality photos when you need to.

4) Network. I’m going to throw a fourth tip out there. Networking with other photographers can be an invaluable resource. Not only can they teach you everything you could learn from your manual or videos but they can also provide the motivation for you to get out and try new styles of photography and gain experience. These people can challenge you, inspire, and be your built in marketing agency.

So there is your starting point on your road map to photographic success. Our next article will feature a few drills that you can do to hone your skills and see what you have learned.

The Art of Photography

  The beauty and value of photography is undisputed in our culture today. We take cameras with us everywhere we go, photographs are sold for millions of dollars, and we consider our most precious photos priceless. Everyone knows the ability photography has to capture memories and emotion but many people have not taken full advantage of this art because they art intimidated by its technology and it’s seemingly complex nature. My goal in this article is to dispel that myth, enhance your appreciation for photography, and help you to develop skills as a photographer.

  I’ve never been a very techy person but when I decided that I wanted to become a sports photography I dove head first into studying photography and how the camera works. To new photographer or those looking to polish their craft my three recommendations are always the same. Watch the most highly rated podcasts on the photographic subject of your choice, take photos as often as you can, and read your camera manual from cover to cover.

  Watching the videos will make the complex gadgetry in your manual simpler by teaching you camera basics and focusing on one or two subjects at a time. Additionally, I’ve always found that people learn best what they are interested in. So as you watch podcast subjects that you are interested in practice the skills they are teaching you will see your knowledge and skills increase incidentally.

  The three podcasts I started with are: The Art of Photography, Photo Tips, and Photography101.

  Photography is a great skill to have for those aspiring to be self employed or pick up some jobs on the side but also very rewarding to have day to day hanging out with friends and family. I had a good friend tell me recently that though she is not a photographer she loves photography since her sister and myself are photographers she always has great photos of what ever she’s doing from goofing around with her newborn niece to backpacking in Yosemite. Also, it was with this friend that I recently went to a wedding and when I got there I found out that the photographer had hurt his back and our friend desperately needed someone to step in. Fortunately I had all of my equipment with me and everything worked out perfectly.

  So I highly encourage you to hone your skills as a photographer by shooting regularly and increasing your knowledge of this art and if nothing else stay tuned for future blog articles that will be geared towards taking the beginner by the hand and developing them to the point where they are ready to start shooting paid gigs.